Ostuni holiday farmhouse "Trullo Lily" in Ostuni

Ostuni - Tourist Information: OSTUNI is one of the most stunning small towns of southern Italy. Situated on three hills at the southernmost edge of Le Murge, and an important Greco-Roman city in the first century AD, its old centre spreads across the highest of the hills, a gleaming white splash of sun-bleached streets and cobbled alleyways, dominating the plains below. The maze of well-preserved winding streets makes for a fascinating amble, the town buzzes on summer nights and there are some exceptional views – particularly from Largo Castello over the woods to the north. Bits of cavorting Baroque twist out of unexpected places, including an ornamented eighteenth-century obelisk, 21m high, dedicated to St Oronzo, which stands in Piazza della Libertà (aka Piazza St Oronzo) on the southern edge of the old town. This is the focal point on summer Saturday nights for hordes of people who drive in from the countryside around, meet up with their friends.

Ostuni - Tourist Information: The Chiesa delle Monacelle, on the main road from the upper town to the main piazza, has displays on prehistory (daily 9am–1pm & 4.30–10pm; winter closes 7.30pm; 1.50), the highlight of which is 'Delia', the skeleton of a pregnant young woman found in a crouched position, her bones decorated before burial. You'll find the tourist office at Corso Mazzini 8 in the old town (summer Mon–Fri 8am–1.30pm & 4.30–9.30pm, Sat 4.30–9.30pm; winter Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; tel 0831.301.268).

There are a number of excellent restaurants in Ostuni: try Osteria del Tempo Perso, at Via Tanzarella 47 (closed all day Mon & lunchtimes except Sun; reservations advised tel 0831.303.320), for good-value fave e cicoria (broad beans with chicory), orecchiette con cime di rapa (pasta with turnip tops) and grilled meat. Vecchia Ostuni, Largo Lanza 9, just off Piazza della Libertà, is another good choice with a vast array of antipasti including deep-fried courgette flowers, snails in a piquant tomato salsa!

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