Varese Ligure holiday villa

Staying at Le Moggie was a highlight of our family trip--our first to Italy. It has an interesting history we were glad we asked about. We found the description to be accurate and the photos were great for letting us know what to expect. The owner was very helpful, courteous, and prompt in replying. We didn't realize how beautiful the mountains would be and how friendly and helpful the people would be. It was a great introduction to the Italian countryside and we would have been happy to stay longer as we felt we had just settled in when it was time to go. There was plenty of privacy and "peace and quiet" and more to do than we had time for. We did go to Cinque Terre two days--and two ways--a nice trip by car or train. We hope to be able to return to Le Moggie some day for a longer stay.

We had a remarkable holiday at Le Moggie, as much for the sense of place and connection as for the lovely surroundings and beautiful house. Some days we took day trips to the wonderful towns on the coast (including La Spezia, Sestri Levante, Portovenere and Portofino) and others we stayed closer to home. We climbed up to the ridge above Le Moggie where you can see stunning mountains stretching off in all directions, explored the path that leads above Varese Ligure, with lovely views over the town, and visited the beautiful area around the village of Comuneglia on the other side of the valley. On all these outings we were welcomed and greeted not as tourists but as guests. We enjoyed the Tuesday market in Varese Ligure and also a monthly Sunday afternoon fair and market, with clowns and musicians. We went to a chestnut roast at the church in the village of Valletti just below Le Moggie, where we were warmly greeted and ate delicious roasted chestnuts with red wine. For a relatively short holiday it made an impression that we will not soon forget.

The house itself is lovely – spacious, comfortable and having everything we needed. The views are spectacular and the silence almost total, except for the occasional sounds of wild boar and a passing tractor. We made delicious meals and spent long evenings reading in front of the fire. When not cooking at home, we enjoyed wonderful regional cuisine at the Albergo Ristorante Amici and the Albergo della Posta.

For a different side of Italy one could not hope for more.

Le Moggie has become our Italian home away from home. We have been there five times now. It really has a character all it's own; old world country charm and just enough convenience. It is is hard to beat the serenity of the pristine chestnut forest that surrounds Le Moggie; hiking in the day-time, watching the lightening bugs dance at night, staring in wonderment at the one-time-a-year toad celebration on the road into town (my son, at age five, will never forget this) or my favorite, getting up late at night to hear the occasional snort of the wild pigs foraging under the trees. We have met people in the surrounding communes who are now "family;" and we have dozens of tales of delight and adventure both in the hills and in the town below. We used Le Moggie as our base for exploring the seaside Ligurian Riviera (one hour drive away).

Le Moggie is comfortable and spacious. My favorite bedroom is up the narrow staircase. It has large shuttered windows that can be opened at night. Down stairs is a large and comfortable den with a nice big fireplace, a sizable table, two sofas and chairs. On the main floor is a full service kitchen (which is very hard to find in many vacation rentals in Europe) with gas stove, oven and a refrigerator that is full (European) size. There is no dishwasher---but one really shouldn't have one in Italy. My wife says my cooking at Le Moggie is the best ever, especially after visiting the weekly (Tuesday) farmers market in town (Varese Ligure). When we want to go out we drive down into town to our favorite pizzeria (across the street from the grocery market--near the entrance to town) or go to one of the trattorias we like--one very small, down an alley. Ask around, some places to eat are sort of hidden. Advertising is not very Italian. The two hotels in town have very good food. The ristorante Gallo Nero on the main square has incredible food. Then there are the two cafe/gelatorias... begin your day people watching with an espresso or end it with a gelato while watching the swallows circle the small "castle". The owners of both cafes are very personable. We liked both places so we took turns.

If you want a true slice of Italian country living--away from tourists---you cannot find a better place to stay than Le Moggie.