The Real Italy
Review Submitted: August 9, 2008
Date of Stay: July 2008
Boville Ernica is about an hour and 45 minutes from Fiumicino airport in Rome. The road signs were quite clear and we had directions from Lucia one of the proprietors of Casa Boville. Casa Boville is surely one of the nicest properties in Boville, situated about 5 minutes' drive (if you're Italian, make that 3 minutes) from the medieval (and earlier ) hilltop village of Boville Ernica. Greeted by the gracious Signora who speaks no English, and we, rudimentary Italian, we were shown our beautiful, sparkling clean, modern apartment with balcony overlooking the pool and olive groves. Up on the hill we could see Boville Ernica, and below us acres upon acres of olive trees and other small villages, all the way to Frosinone in the distance (about a 20 minute drive--unless, of course, you're Italian). Later that evening, Augusto, who does speak English, came to greet us and to make sure we had all we needed.
We had all we needed and more...a totally relaxing, total immersion into Italian life for two blissful weeks. Visiting the ancient village of Boville one evening, we were treated to a procession of the Virgin, accompanied by a brass band, and followed by a rousing rendition of Verdi's "Rigoletto" by the same orchestra, in the town square, which looked like a wedding cake frosted in white lights. In Boville we found restaurants with no menus, but simple, delicious and fresh fare...we were treated to several dishes of local "antipasti"...beans, cheese, rice, salumi, accompanied by foccaccia, followed by pasta (or pasta fagioli), grilled meats and green salads; or, of course, wood fired pizza. A meal for two: 25 Euros (about $37) including wine and beer.
Casa Boville itself was great to come home to after a day touring the spectacular countryside and villages nearby. (and a trip to Pompeii: 2 hour drive) A dip in the pool, an hour of sunbathing, then dining out or eating in. A grocery store directly across the street is convenient for all staples (fresh meat must be purchased at a macelleria, or at the supermarket in Frosinone).
English is rarely spoken in the region...and we liked it that way! The people of the Ernici mountains were friendly and hospitable, and we managed nicely with guide books and guidance from landlord Augusto. And we learned a little Italian!
Weather in July during our stay was gorgeous...sunny and hot, but due to the elevation, a beautiful breeze blew through our apartment each evening. Heavenly!
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